Part two of a four part series on HOT DRINKS.
As I mentioned before, some days I drink coffee, other days I drink tea. Both, I prepare rather fussily, but the fussiness of coffee is more technical, whereas all the methods of tea preparation I know involve few hard numbers. I would describe how I prepare my coffee as a process, but for tea -- or, at least, for the tea we currently have -- what I perform is more like a ritual or a ceremony. Coffee involves science; tea is an art.
The tea we currently have labels itself as "Young Hyson", though I'm not experienced enough to confirm this. For instruments, aside from those involved in measuring or in heating, I keep a pot and at least two cups. The leaves are steeped multiple times, with one cup used exclusively to measure and, if necessary, cool the water by swirling. Both coffee and tea take about fifteen minutes to prepare, but with coffee, I have to do much of that standing up, intently watching over all that I do; with tea, so long as I have some sort of timekeeping device, I can sit down and just....do something else. I can think.
Coffee seems to embody the active life, while tea well-made embodies the contemplative. This is reflected even in their tastes, with the darkest of pu'erhs punching softer than the lightest of roasts. And, when prepared as a craft -- that is, when I make them with ingredients other than grounds/leaves and water, or through methods other than percolating/infusing -- I typically have an easier time with tea.
Easiest of all the "craft" preparations I know is cold-brewing, which can be performed with either tea or coffee, but cold-brewed coffee tends to be more nondescript than its regularly-brewed counterparts, while green tea retains complexity with either method. "Young Hyson" specifically is a green tea, and the only other "craft" preparation I know for it is preparing it the Moroccan way, where the leaves are practically boiled in the water for a relatively absurd amount of time, then copious amounts of mint and sugar are added to the brew. I genuinely enjoy this, but if my thesis of tea being the more contemplative drink is to be advanced, then the sort of contemplation this method engenders is less aesthetic (or even mystical!) than it is, say, social.
I suppose the same is true for the "craft" preparations I enjoy whenever we have black/red tea. Teh tarik is a method which I began to play around with shortly after a visit to Singapore: concentrated black tea is mixed with condensed milk then poured back and forth between two containers until one gets a reasonably foamy head. Another Southeast Asian method I'm familiar with is teh telur, which is basically eggnog tea. Finally, you have masala chai, where you boil tea in milk with a bunch of spices, and I believe you can "pull" this like one does when making teh tarik.
For more "commercial" tea: I mean, is Nestle or Lipton Iced Tea really "tea"? Or even the flavoured milk of your average boba place? I dunno -- we can't afford an espresso machine, so coffeehouses are in this sense essential, while the tea-making method I most often practice deeply intertwines the brewing with the drinking. If ever our so-called teahouses started to really focus on their tea, rather than on what they served with or even through it....
P.S. There's a really fascinating old book on tea culture in China and Japan (but mainly in Japan, and a Chinese friend notes how some passages are a bit iffy, what with this book having been written in the early 1900s) that I recommend y'all check out: The Book of Tea, by Kakuzo Okakura If I'd already figured out the "difference" between coffee and tea I elaborated on in this post before I'd found this book, then this book at least helped me with my articulation.
The tea we currently have labels itself as "Young Hyson", though I'm not experienced enough to confirm this. For instruments, aside from those involved in measuring or in heating, I keep a pot and at least two cups. The leaves are steeped multiple times, with one cup used exclusively to measure and, if necessary, cool the water by swirling. Both coffee and tea take about fifteen minutes to prepare, but with coffee, I have to do much of that standing up, intently watching over all that I do; with tea, so long as I have some sort of timekeeping device, I can sit down and just....do something else. I can think.
Coffee seems to embody the active life, while tea well-made embodies the contemplative. This is reflected even in their tastes, with the darkest of pu'erhs punching softer than the lightest of roasts. And, when prepared as a craft -- that is, when I make them with ingredients other than grounds/leaves and water, or through methods other than percolating/infusing -- I typically have an easier time with tea.
Easiest of all the "craft" preparations I know is cold-brewing, which can be performed with either tea or coffee, but cold-brewed coffee tends to be more nondescript than its regularly-brewed counterparts, while green tea retains complexity with either method. "Young Hyson" specifically is a green tea, and the only other "craft" preparation I know for it is preparing it the Moroccan way, where the leaves are practically boiled in the water for a relatively absurd amount of time, then copious amounts of mint and sugar are added to the brew. I genuinely enjoy this, but if my thesis of tea being the more contemplative drink is to be advanced, then the sort of contemplation this method engenders is less aesthetic (or even mystical!) than it is, say, social.
I suppose the same is true for the "craft" preparations I enjoy whenever we have black/red tea. Teh tarik is a method which I began to play around with shortly after a visit to Singapore: concentrated black tea is mixed with condensed milk then poured back and forth between two containers until one gets a reasonably foamy head. Another Southeast Asian method I'm familiar with is teh telur, which is basically eggnog tea. Finally, you have masala chai, where you boil tea in milk with a bunch of spices, and I believe you can "pull" this like one does when making teh tarik.
For more "commercial" tea: I mean, is Nestle or Lipton Iced Tea really "tea"? Or even the flavoured milk of your average boba place? I dunno -- we can't afford an espresso machine, so coffeehouses are in this sense essential, while the tea-making method I most often practice deeply intertwines the brewing with the drinking. If ever our so-called teahouses started to really focus on their tea, rather than on what they served with or even through it....
P.S. There's a really fascinating old book on tea culture in China and Japan (but mainly in Japan, and a Chinese friend notes how some passages are a bit iffy, what with this book having been written in the early 1900s) that I recommend y'all check out: The Book of Tea, by Kakuzo Okakura If I'd already figured out the "difference" between coffee and tea I elaborated on in this post before I'd found this book, then this book at least helped me with my articulation.